v.2.167 rev.1
main page
russian english
Blog spot » mu597 »

PSO RAcaseal kit

PSO RAcaseal kit
12 Jun 2011 22:11:25

The other day I receved my long awaited RAcaseal model kit, I made her today. Phantasy star online is my favorite MMORPGs I love the art and the way it plays and it defiantly helps that you can play it offline, alone.

Anyways on to the figure...

The box.





Her parts laid out.



In progress...





And completed!



Size comparison.



Review - Overall she was a lot easier to build then I expected. The only part I had trouble with was the tiny waterside decal on her chest. She is sturdier than I expected as well only part that doesn't seem too sturdy are her hands to hold her weapons (the instructions recommend gluing them) She is just about as poseable as a figma and she looks pretty good unpainted but her weapons are all one color (as usual for a kotobukiya kit)

I'm thinking of ordering a second one that I'll try painting. I'd probably paint her in this color scheme.



Oh and then theres this...



I cant wait!

PS- Sorry for the phone pictures. My camera needed to be charged and I didnt want to wait to build her. I'll take better pictures later.

Update - the decal fell off... I think I just put it on incorrectly...

Update 2 - The hands are much more annoying to deal with then expected and now I'm starting to notice stress marks where her shoulders connect. Maybe I should just wait for the next version instead of getting another of this one.
Spy 12 2 117 | add a comment
17 0
Share it with
Related figurines:
Light ArmorType Devil Succubus Valona
Light ArmorType Devil Succubus Valona
Nendoroid Plus Plushie Series 02: Miku Hachune
Nendoroid Plus Plushie Series 02: Miku Hachune
figma Mana Miyuki: School Uniform ver.
figma Mana Miyuki: School Uniform ver.
Phantasy Star Online: RAcaseal Elenor
Phantasy Star Online: RAcaseal Elenor
↓ More ↓ ↑ Less ↑
Viridia
Viridia (USA)
12 Jun 2011, 23:16:25
0 (0)
Like this comment?
That looks really slick; I'm glad that it's in scale with figmas and shinkis. I'm hoping kotobukiya decides to make a HUcast and HUcaseal kit, and hopefully less recolors.

Also I notice she comes with a shot, saber, but does she come with a handgun?
mu597
mu597 (USA)
12 Jun 2011, 23:26:27
0 (0)
Like this comment?
Yes she has a handgun she also has a second saber.

By the way since you seem to be knowledgeable in this area if I where to paint her what do you think would be better to use a clear coat or pledge?
Viridia
Viridia (USA)
13 Jun 2011, 01:10:39
2 (2)
Like this comment?
Clear coat or pledge both pretty much accomplish the same thing of giving off a nice shiny gloss clear coat. However, there are noteable differences on how one should be applying it.

To start pledge:

1. Pledge is interesting since it's much much thinner than your typical model clear coat solution. Despite that; usually 1 coat is enough maybe 2.

2. If you mess up with pledge you can fix it, but like with any sealant after you apply let it sit for a good day, maybe 2 days to make sure.

3. 9 bucks for 27 fluid oz of substitute clear coat is a steal; and I love it for being that.

4 . For more in depth look at pledge; refer to this fellow's website on pledge. I have to admit this guy really did his research on this stuff.




Now for clear coat:

1. Compared to pledge, some the really nice clear coats can seal a thing with one coat. I usually do 2 coats. (I don't know which brand you plan to use )

2. The option of being able to pick between gloss: (the type of coating most SHFs use), matte: (the non-reflective coating, SHF kamen rider Joker and I believe all nendoroids are applied with this kind of finish), lastly the lesser used satin: (which is inbetween gloss and matte, only figure I own that is remotely close to a satin is SHF kamen rider Skull Crystal)


3. Most clear coats require a longer time for it to fully dry/cure and as in longer I mean at least 2 days, I would give it 3 or 4 even per coat. I remember painting my first gundam and sealing; it had a semi-uneven touch to it.
I also got hasty once and applied two coats within 3 hours of the first one on something, when it dried it had a rubbery touch to it afterwards.

4. Paying 2~12 bucks for a clear coat that comes in a small container about the size of a eye drop container is somewhat expensive.


I would suggest pledge if you don't have clear coat already, also can be used for other things. If you are going to use a model clear coat I would suggest vallejo clear gloss.

One last thing is to test out your pledge/clear coat on a separate piece of plastic or painted cardboard just to get a feel for it. best of luck man
mu597
mu597 (USA)
13 Jun 2011, 01:29:22
0 (0)
Like this comment?
Thanks for the advice!
mu597
mu597 (USA)
03 Jul 2011, 03:14:06
0 (0)
Like this comment?
I've got another question (It might be kind of silly but) should I apply the clear coat before or after the model is completely assembled?
Viridia
Viridia (USA)
03 Jul 2011, 04:08:01
1 (1)
Like this comment?
It's a perfectly valid question; I would apply clear coat after you put it completely together.

However, I would do it something like: completely put together leg then apply clear coat to leg, completely put together body then apply, and so on. And then snap the legs, arms, to the body.

Other things to keep in mind is, the placement of the joints, obviously you want to be careful with clear coat around those areas. If it's too difficult it might be better to clear coat only the pieces near or attached to the joints first before putting it together, and then applying clear coat to the rest.

Pardon me, for not being able to give you a definitive answer, but use your best judgement.

(I'm curious, I kinda want to see if you painted it already or still in progress or still planning
mu597
mu597 (USA)
03 Jul 2011, 04:49:05
1 (1)
Like this comment?
I actually just got the extra kit today and I still need to get the paint and stuff, I'll probably put in progress pics up on my twitter page.
mu597
mu597 (USA)
04 Jul 2011, 02:49:04
0 (0)
Like this comment?
Another quick question how many cotes of pledge do you recommend?
Viridia
Viridia (USA)
04 Jul 2011, 04:20:16
1 (1)
Like this comment?
I would suggest 1 or 2 coats if you're going with pledge. I would, however, try coating pledge on a separate piece of plastic or something you don't mind testing/messing up on to get familiar with it. For example if 1 coat seems just fine, stick with it, most of the time I do one coat anyways.

One fairly large note, if you're doing 2 coats, I would maximize the cure time (the time it takes for the coat to completely dry). (Longer the better in most cases, some people argue one should wait a week for each coat to dry, I usually do 2 days between each coat if I had to apply a extra coat)

All this talking about makes me want to finish a particular model I've been putting off to complete.
mu597
mu597 (USA)
04 Jul 2011, 04:39:50
0 (0)
Like this comment?
Good to know I've already started some of the painting and assembling so I was curious.
ToonAddict
ToonAddict (USA)
13 Jun 2011, 04:33:30
0 (0)
Like this comment?
So, if I'm reading this blog right, paint and glue isn't necessary?
mu597
mu597 (USA)
13 Jun 2011, 14:57:57
0 (0)
Like this comment?
The only thing that needs gluing is her weapon holding hands that tend to pop apart when holding something. The instructions also suggest gluing the "bow" parts on the back of her skirt.

Only registered users can post comments.
Please log in with your username and password or with the help of other services:

You can also create new account by filling out the form.

Author
Shelf Profile Figures Anime Blog Photos Activity Feedback
Send PM